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Gothic fashion:

Where old black is the new black

By Bram Fulk

The term "Goth" is largely misunderstood. For most people, if something is considered gothic, it instantly conjures images of black clothes, heavy makeup, and chains and studs, as well as an overwhelming feeling of darkness and despair. Admittedly, the gothic subculture does, in fact, enthusiastically embrace all of those things. The mistake occurs when one looks at the Goth subculture and sees a bunch of closed-off kids obsessed with death and the occult, who dress weird just to get attention. As it turns out, being "Goth" is a lot more than wearing black on a sunny day and watching a lot of anime. The gothic subculture is as diverse and complex as that of the jocks, the nerds, the hippies, or any other fundamentally unique segment of our society.

Released just in time for Halloween is a new book published by Yale University Press, titled "Gothic: Dark Glamour" that thoroughly examines the gothic subculture and its most visible element: its fashion. Written by Jennifer Park and Valerie Steele (fashion historian, director & curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and ultimate expert on all things Goth chic), the book is a collection of photos and text that totally explores the world of gothic glamour from the runways of New York to the punk kids sitting next to you in school.

So what is the gothic subculture, really? Where did it come from and why in the world does it persist so virulently in this day and age? Contemporary Goth fashion's roots are really in the post-punk era of the 1970s and early 1980s. In fact, punk style and Goth fashion really go almost hand-in-hand since both live to spit in the face of readily-accepted society. But even though both have strong anti-establishment elements and aesthetically both forms of fashion share some similar characteristics, they remain two distinctly different counter cultures. Gothic fashion really came into its own in the 1990s with a resurgence of interest in the macabre by younger generations.

So what exactly characterizes gothic fashion? Is it the dark clothes, dyed black hair, and black nail polish? What about the lace-laden shirts, the leather pants, and the long, flowing trench coats? Well, yes. But it's so much more than that. One of the most important elements of gothic fashion is androgyny. Unlike most other forms of fashion, the line between male and female clothing oftentimes becomes somewhat blurred. Girls readily wear more masculine pieces of clothing, like heavy leather boots and items with metal spikes and chains, while it is perfectly acceptable (and, in fact, almost essentially fashionable) for boys to wear traditionally feminine articles such as lacey, blouse-like Victorian shirts and heavy makeup. Eroticism of gothic fascination with mortality is often a cornerstone of the subculture's fashion. Many times (though not always) gothic fashion will toe the line with bondage and S & M in regard to style and design. However, eroticism and sex appeal are fundamentally linked with all forms of fashion, be it a leather corset with a see-through lace bust, or a cheerleader skirt, or a teeny two-piece bikini on the beach.

Gothic Fashion persists on a scale that many probably do not even realize. Store such as Spencer's Gifts and Hot Topic bring articles of clothing inspired by gothic design into the everyday fashion of people of all ages and backgrounds. On top of that, there are many instances in pop culture where romanticized elements of gothic fashion are presented positively to younger audiences. From books like Anne Rice's Vampire Chronicles, the Twilight books and — even to a certain extent — the Harry Potter books, to popular TV shows and movies like "Death Note," "The Dark Knight" and every single thing Tim Burton has ever done, gothic subculture and specifically gothic fashion has permeated nearly every aspect of contemporary entertainment. Oh, and how can one forget the insanely fanatical followings of musical groups such as Fall Out Boy, Panic! At the Disco, Green Day, and My Chemical Romance, to name a few?

If you are an active member of the contemporary Goth subculture, "Gothic: Dark Glamour" should be treated as an enthusiast's guide on how to dress the part. For the rest of us, the book is an incredibly interesting read, filled with tons of beautiful and brilliant fashion photographs, that chronicles the birth, rise, and reign of gothic-inspired fashion in our society today. It's definitely worth a read, and, who knows, might make you take a second look at how you want to accessorize that little black dress the next time you pull it on. And, yes, I am talking to you too, fellas.

Originally Published: October 29, 2008

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